
Naples in Depth
07-16 April 2026
DR MARY JANE CUYLER
Unpack your bags to uncover the many-layered history of Naples, the vibrant city of the Greeks, Romans, Caravaggio – and of a modern resurgence
Overview
Naples has long been one of Europe’s most exciting and physically beautiful cities: just witness its first mythical naming for Parthenope the siren, Goethe’s famous exhortation to “See Naples and then die,” or the modern revival in interest thanks to the novels of Elena Ferrante’s best-selling Neapolitan Quartet.
On this new 10-day residential tour, take an opportunity to explore the dynamic metropolis. There has been a recent project to revitalise the Bay of Naples’ great archaeological works at Pompeii and Herculaneum, and a renewed interest in excellent local collections of medieval, baroque and contemporary art. Led by Dr Mary Jane Cuyler, a Classical archaeologist who has worked in Italy for a number of years, trace the city’s early development in its underground archaeological sites, baroque churches and cloisters, before undertaking comprehensive guided visits of the superlative National Archaeological Museum as well as Pompeii and Herculaneum.
From Caravaggio’s final days in the city to the mysterious Veiled Christ sculpture and the little-known Age of Giotto preserved at Donnaregina, the tour explores great Neapolitan art. There is an outstanding collection of painting in the Capodimonte Museum, one of Italy’s most important state art galleries, and MADRE showcases the modern and contemporary art scenes, local and international. These also now play out in vibrant street art.
This residential-style tour is rounded out with an excursion to magnificent Caserta, and by the expertise of your tour leader Dr Mary Jane Cuyler.
Tour leader
Dr Mary Jane Cuyler is an archaeologist and Latin scholar with extensive experience working on excavations in Greece and Italy. She is best known for her work on Ostia, ancient Rome’s harbour city, where she served as the field director for excavations at the ancient synagogue for more than a decade.
With an MA in Classical Archaeology from The University of Texas at Austin and a PhD from the University of Sydney, Mary Jane has led both small group and university student tours. She speaks fluent Italian.
Image of Dr Cuyler courtesy of Brooke Ophoff
DETAILS
DATES:
07-16 April 2026
ITINERARY:
Naples – 9 nights
PRICE:
$9,750pp twinshare
SINGLE SUPPLEMENT:
$1,900 for sole use of a double room
DEPOSIT:
$1,000pp at the time of booking
SECOND DEPOSIT:
$1,500pp due 09 October 2025
FITNESS:
Above moderate: walking tours, uneven ground at archaeological sites, use of public transport
GROUP SIZE:
Max. 16 places
GETTING THERE:
The tour starts at 4.00pm on Tuesday 07 April, in the lobby of our hotel in Naples
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Rediscover a wealth of Greek and Roman heritage at Pompeii and Herculaneum together with an archaeologist, after extensive new excavations
Explore Naples neighbourhood by neighbourhood, from the narrow alleys of Spaccanapoli and the street art of the Spanish Quarters to panoramic hillsides
Survey the outstanding but less-known medieval art of Naples, including fine sculpture in San Giovanni a Carbonara and Giotto’s legacy in fresco painting
Spend a day examining the collections of Naples’ Archaeological Museum: world-class bronze sculptures, paintings, the Alexander Mosaic and objects from daily life
Focus on Caravaggio’s last days in Naples in context, including the Flagellation of Christ and Seven Acts of Mercy
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TUESDAY 07 APRIL 2026 – ARRIVAL (D)
The tour begins at 4.00pm in our hotel lobby, when we meet together with tour leader Dr Mary Jane Cuyler to take an orientation stroll of our neighbourhood. Afterwards, there is a welcome briefing in the hotel bar, over a drink or two. We continue to a neighbourhood restaurant to enjoy dinner together. First of nine nights in Naples.WEDNESDAY 08 APRIL – LAYERS OF HISTORY (B)
This morning we meet our local guide for a walking tour of central Naples. Our visit concentrates on Spaccanapoli, one of the original axes of Greek “Neapolis”. Here we encounter Naples’ many surprises, from a colourful cloister made entirely of majolica tiles at Santa Chiara to a green oasis hidden in plain sight in a street bustling with presepi(Nativity scene) artisans. From imposing medieval churches such as San Domenico Maggiore and the startlingly lifelike achievements in marble of Sanmartino’s celebrated Veiled Christ, we descend below the surface to explore Naples’ fascinating underground, its history stretching from the ancient Greeks to WWII bomb shelters. Returning to the hotel, there is a talk by Dr Mary Jane Cuyler. The evening is then at leisure.THURSDAY 09 APRIL – POMPEII & THE GREAT PROJECT (B, L)
We spend the day entirely in the Roman town of Pompeii, one of the most comprehensive and revealing windows onto the ancient Roman world that we can visit today. Together with our local guide and Mary Jane, we move from Pompeii’s fascinating but crowded theatres, bath complexes and lavish townhouses to a focus on everyday life. Exploring the shops and bars, aqueducts and tombs allows us to visit parts of this huge site that are less visited by others. After a simple lunch together, we continue to the Villa of the Mysteries, a fascinating agricultural complex that lay just beyond ancient Pompeii’s walls. Its mills, farm storage and animal quarters were complemented by comfortable quarters for its wealthy owner. One room still preserves an extraordinary set of frescoes showing a mystery cult’s initiation rites; these give the villa its modern name. Returning to Naples by private coach, the evening is at leisure.FRIDAY 10 APRIL – FROM THE MIDDLE AGES TO THE MODERN (B)
After a talk by Mary Jane in our hotel, we have a private transfer to a district of Naples that does not lie on the radar of most visitors. San Giovanni a Carbonara is a fourteenth-century Gothic church that, in the Early Renaissance, enjoyed the patronage of Naples’ Angevin rulers. The intention was to turn it into a royal pantheon, and it consequently preserves fine sculpture that can still be enjoyed in situ. Afterwards, we continue to Santa Maria Donna Regina Vecchia, another institution associated with the Angevin. In the early fourteenth century, it was decorated with frescoes by one of Italy’s most significant artists: Pietro Cavallini, along with the better-known Giotto, revolutionised medieval pictorial representation and these are among his best-preserved works. They give us a strong indication of the innovative culture of painting inaugurated in Naples by Cavallini and by Giotto, none of whose works here survive. After time for lunch at leisure, we enjoy a visit to MADRE, a contemporary art museum whose permanent collection contains works by local artist Mimmo Paladino, as well as Lucio Fontana, Sol LeWitt and Andy Warhol. In the afternoon, we continue to the cathedral, which still preserves the miraculous liquefying relics of St Januarius or San Gennaro, before admiring Caravaggio’s Seven Acts of Mercy nearby. It was commissioned by a local charitable organisation and has never left their premises since its completion. We return to the hotel by private transfer.SATURDAY 11 APRIL – HERCULANEUM & THE SORRENTO PENINSULA (B)
This morning we travel to Herculaneum by local train, and meet our guide to begin exploring this significant site. Once a pleasant seaside retreat for Rome’s great and good, the excavated area is significantly smaller than at Pompeii, but it offers an intimate perspective on the recreations of a wealthy and educated class. Afterwards, we continue by train to Sorrento, located on top of a panoramic peninsula that enjoys views over the entire Bay of Naples and over to the island of Capri. There is time for a stroll and to enjoy browsing in the local shops, before we return to Naples by train.SUNDAY 12 APRIL – THE NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM OF NAPLES (B)
After Naples passed from Spanish to Bourbon rule, its significant ancient sites underwent the earliest period of their systematic excavation. Numerous treasures – monumental sculptures, masterpieces in mosaic, fresco paintings and collections of objects from daily life – began to make their way into a royal collection. This process continued over the centuries despite changes of government, and these priceless objects now comprise Naples’ superlative National Archaeological Museum. It is one of the country’s – if not Europe’s – most important archaeological collections. We spend a full day here together with our guide and with Mary Jane, allowing you to gain expert perspectives on the artworks and artefacts, but also to return after lunch at leisure to continue independently your explorations. Schedules permitting, we hope to attend a performance tonight at the Teatro San Carlo.MONDAY 13 APRIL – CATACOMBS & CAPODIMONTE (B)
As we have seen, Naples’ underground sites preserve a wealth of information about its early settlement, and this includes the rise of Christianity. This can be seen most clearly at a number of underground burial sites, or catacombs, and we begin today with a tour of one of the most important and extensive: the catacombs of San Gennaro (St Januarius), who is the patron saint of Naples. Unlike most ancient catacombs, these are spacious and almost airy, and may have pre-Christian origins as well. Afterwards, we continue to Capodimonte, a panoramic location – as its name suggests – for a favourite Bourbon hunting lodge. Today it houses a staggering painting collection. It is difficult to speak of highlights in a collection this extensive, but these include Caravaggio’s Flagellation of Christ, Artemisia Gentileschi’s Judith Slaying Holofernes and Titian’s Danaë, as we discover on our guided visit. Returning to the hotel, the evening is at leisure.TUESDAY 14 APRIL – ON THE STREETS WITH CARAVAGGIO & MARADONA (B)
Caravaggio spent two key periods in Naples – firstly while avoiding a Roman murder charge and then again in his final artistic period, before his death during an attempted return to Rome. While in Naples, Caravaggio undertook some of the most important, best paid and celebrated works of his career, and made some important changes to his style. After a talk by Mary Jane in our hotel, we meet our guide to admire Caravaggio’s Martyrdom of St Ursula. The last work that the painter completed, it is now displayed in one of Naples’ major historic banks. Afterwards, we take a guidedwalking tour of the Quartieri Spagnoli, or Spanish Quarters, a seventeenth-century district developed by Naples’ baroque rulers. In Caravaggio’s time, it was a neighbourhood of taverns, shops and bassi (or tenements) and the Quartieri still retain much of this popular flavour. They have also become a centre for vibrant, and locally relevant, street art, including large-scale murals in honour of local hero Diego Maradona. Today’s program concludes with a visit to the Certosa di San Martino, a large former monastery with a breathtaking view over the Bay of Naples – and an idiosyncratic collection that includes excellent examples of historic presepi or Nativity scenes. Returning to the hotel, the evening is at leisure.WEDNESDAY 15 APRIL – REGGIA DI CASERTA & SANT’ANGELO IN FORMIS (B, L)
Today we take an excursion outside Naples by private coach, to visit two significant sites. We travel first to the Reggia di Caserta, the largest palace complex in Europe and constructed by Naples’ Bourbon rulers in the eighteenth century as a rival to Versailles. Our visit concentrates on the gardens, a formal combination of manicured structure and cultivated “wildness”. Charles VII worked closely with architect Luigi Vanvitelli on the garden project, which includes a small industrial complex designed to allow for the production of silk, as well as extensive aqueducts that supply the many fountains and giochi d’acqua. After a farewell lunch, we call in at Sant’Angelo in Formis, an eleventh-century Benedictine abbey church funded by Abbot Desiderius of Monte Cassino. Its well-preserved Byzantine frescoes are some of the most influential to be found in Europe. Returning to Naples, we enjoy farewell drinks together. Final night in Naples.THURSDAY 16 APRIL – DEPARTURE (B)
Tour arrangements conclude after breakfast in our hotel. It is a short journey by taxi to Naples Capodichino airport, for flights connecting to European destinations. High-speed trains from Napoli Centrale railway station provide convenient connections to Italian cities in the north, as well as further south. Our partners at Mary Rossi Travel will be pleased to advise on any aspects of your onward travel, including comprehensive travel insurance. -
Grand Hotel Santa Lucia 4* Naples, 9 nights
Naples currently offers few centrally-located 4* hotels that can accommodate a small group. This elegant property is located opposite the marina of Santa Lucia, so the breakfast room offers panoramic views onto the Castel dell’Ovo. The waterfront is lined with restaurants, offering a wide choice for independent dining.
We have chosen rooms in the Classic category, decorated in a modern style. An upgrade to sea-view rooms can be organised on request and according to availability; please contact us at the time of booking to arrange.
NB: hotels of a similar standard may be substituted.
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9 nights’ accommodation at a 4* hotel
All breakfasts and 3 lunches or dinners, including drinks
All ground transport, guided tours and entrance fees to sites as mentioned in the itinerary, and tipping
Talks and commentary by an expert tour leader throughout
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A $1,000pp deposit is required at the time of booking to hold your place on tour.
A second deposit of $1,500pp is due on 09 October 2025.
We will invoice you for final payment for the tour, due on 23 January 2026.
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When you book on one of tours, we ask you to accept our terms and conditions. You can read our terms and conditions here.
BOOK YOUR PLACE
A deposit of $1,000pp is required at the time of booking to hold your place on this tour
NEED TIME TO CONFIRM YOUR PLANS?
You can hold a place with no obligation for 7 days while you check your other arrangements
Questions?
Get in touch with us by email or call us on (02) 8599 4201