exploring corsica

05-15 may 2025
Dr estelle lazer

Explore a lesser-known Mediterranean island, proud of its prehistoric sites and rich ancient Roman, medieval and Napoleonic histories, with guided walks from its spectacular coasts to cool forests

OVERVIEW

Corsica remains one of the Mediterranean’s lesser-known islands, proud of its distinct identity in language, gastronomy and politics.

In ancient times its safe harbours guaranteed important trading partners, from Phoenicians and ancient Greeks to Etruscans and almighty Rome. The power of two rival medieval maritime empires, Pisa and Genoa, who colonised Corsica in the Middle Ages, can still be seen in the island’s outstanding architecture – and heard in the Corsican language. From the eighteenth century, Corsica became strongly associated with Europe’s modern political struggles, including the rise and fall of Napoleon and the independence movement led by Pasquale Paoli.

Corsica is equally celebrated for an extraordinary diversity of landscapes. Its coastlines vary from the dramatic red rocks and pristine seas outside Ajaccio to the precipitous limestone cliffs of Bonifacio in the south. The interior is characterised by mountain woods of chestnut and oak, with cool river valleys crossed by medieval Genoese bridges. Our local guide is also qualified to lead hikes, and has worked with us to design a select program of 4 guided walks that range from gentle to moderate, according to international hiking standards.

This 11-day tour program is complemented by the experience of your tour leader, archaeologist Dr Estelle Lazer. For more than a decade, Estelle has led cultural tours to the Mediterranean, including many to Corsica.

TOUR LEADER

Dr Estelle Lazer is an Australian archaeologist with an international reputation for her work on the human victims of ancient Pompeii. She has published numerous scholarly works, including the volume Resurrecting Pompeii, and has addressed numerous audiences on her expertise, from The Australian National University to Oxford University, the British Museum and The Getty Center, Malibu. She has appeared in documentaries for the BBC, together with Mary Beard, and National Geographic.

Estelle is an experienced tour leader in the Mediterranean, and has travelled with numerous groups to Corsica.

Photo courtesy Gianni Quaranta.

Details

DATES:
05-15 May 2025

ITINERARY:
Ajaccio – 2 nights
Bonifacio – 2 nights
Bastia – 3 nights
Corte – 1 night
Ajaccio – 2 nights

PRICE:
$10,950pp twinshare

SINGLE SUPPLEMENT:
$1,695 for sole use of a double room

DEPOSIT:
$1,000pp at the time of booking

FITNESS:
Above moderate: 4 half-day walks ranging from gentle to moderate on graded but unpaved paths; getting on and off boats; navigating steps and archaeological sites; some long coaching trips

GROUP SIZE:
Max. 16 places

GETTING THERE:
The tour starts in the lobby of our hotel, at 6.00pm on Monday 05 May 2025

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    • Understand Corsica's fascinating prehistory, at Filitosa's evocative standing stones

    • Appreciate Mediterranean maritime history at Aléria, an archaeological site with a harbour used by Phoenicians, Etruscans and ancient Romans

    • Encounter outstanding medieval architecture, including Pisan Romanesque cathedrals and Genoese fortifications

    • Survey the rise of Napoleon, at Ajaccio’s museums and in the superlative art collection of his uncle Joseph Fesch

    • Admire Corsica’s diverse landscapes on 4 guided walks, from the rugged red rocks of its pristine coastline to cool mountain forests, dramatic cliffs and untouched wetlands

    • Travel with two experts, archaeologist Dr Estelle Lazer and an English-speaking local hiking guide and historian

  • MONDAY 05 MAY 2025 – ARRIVAL (public holiday) (D)

    Our tour commences in the lobby of our hotel this evening, at 6.00pm. After meeting tour leader, Dr Estelle Lazer, we take an orientation stroll and then enjoy dinner together in a local restaurant. Overnight Ajaccio.

    TUESDAY 06 MAY - IMPERIAL AJACCIO (B)

    The capital city of Corsica is indelibly associated with its most famous son, Napoléon Bonaparte. This morning, after a talk in the hotel, we uncover the legacy of history and art left by his family in Ajaccio, together with Estelle and our local guide. At the Maison Bonaparte, we meet the household established by Napoléon’s great-great-grandfather, and learn of the complicated history of the property as it passed to subsequent generations and weathered the events of Corsica’s independence movement under statesman Pasquale Paoli. After time to explore the charming farmers’ market, we continue to the Chapelle Impériale, the magisterial crypt in local granite established by Napoléon’s uncle Joseph Fesch. Cardinal Fesch was one of the nineteenth-century’s pre-eminent collectors of Italian art, as we learn on our guided tour of the adjacent Musée Fesch, one of the most important French collections of fine arts. Returning to our hotel, the evening is at leisure. Overnight Ajaccio.

    WEDNESDAY MAY 07 – A COASTAL WALK & PREHISTORIC FILITOSA, WALK #1 (B, L, D)

    We check out of our hotel this morning and travel a short distance south-west of Ajaccio to the Archipelago of the Sanguinaires. It’s named for its stunning views across to the Îsles Sanguinaires, themselves an important refuge for sea birds and pods of dolphins. Nineteenth-century novelist Alphonse Daudet wrote of this place: “Imagine a wild and blood-red island with a lighthouse at one end and an old Genoese tower at the other.” Our panoramic coastal walk this morning is a gentle one (ca 2hrs, elevation gain of 200m), as we traverse a section of the Pointe de la Parata to arrive at the beach of Petit Capo. Afterwards, we make our way to Filitosa, a fascinating megalithic site discovered, almost by chance, between Ajaccio and Bonifacio in 1946. Its 2-3m standing stones or menhirs, in their beautiful and untouched surrounds, were probably erected ca 1500 BCE, and are carved with human faces and weapons. We have a simple lunch together on site. Making our way to nearby Sartène, a pretty hill town with well-preserved medieval buildings, we stop to cross a thirteenth-century Pisan bridge on foot, a reminder of successive waves of colonisation. After checking into our hotel in Bonifacio in the late afternoon, we enjoy dinner together in a restaurant close to our hotel. Overnight Bonifacio.

    THURSDAY 08 MAY – THE CLIFFS OF BONIFACIO (B)

    After a talk in the hotel, we have a morning walking tour of Bonifacio. A town with an extraordinary defensive position, perched high on dramatic limestone cliffs over the harbour below, Bonifacio is separated from Sardinia’s Santa Teresa di Gallura by only 16km, and its strategic potential was exploited by various overlords from the ninth century, commencing with the Margraves of nearby Tuscany. Its fortifications are still impressive, and viewing them from the water adds an extra perspective, so after time at leisure for lunch and some shopping in the town’s pretty boutiques, we have an optional afternoon cruise of Bonifacio’s cliffs. The evening is at leisure in Bonifacio, where the port is lined with seafood restaurants and moules marinieres are a local specialty. Overnight Bonifacio.

    FRIDAY 09 MAY – ROMAN ALÉRIA & CORSICAN WETLANDS – WALK #2 (B, D)

    We check out of our hotel this morning and travel to the Étang d’Urbino. The island’s second largest wetland, it has a maximum depth of 9m and is crisscrossed by sandbanks that allow junipers and pines to grow. A significant stop-over for migratory birds heading south, it hosts up to 113 different species and 37 of these breed locally. Our second guided walk (ca 60mins, elevation gain of 4m) with our guide focuses on the ecology of the wetland and of the island’s lagoons, before a simple lunch together. After lunch we continue to the archaeological site of Aléria, a first-century Roman town founded in another étang, or natural inlet. The settlement was abandoned during the depredations of the sixth-century Migration Period, and has only recently been systematically excavated and opened to the public. Continuing to Bastia, we check in to our hotel and enjoy dinner together. Overnight Bastia.

    SATURDAY 10 MAY – THE PORT OF BASTIA (B)

    Situated at the bottom of Cap Corse, the distinctive promontory whose striking landscape and abundant wildlife characterise the northernmost point of Corsica, Bastia is still the island’s principal port and offers regular connections by ferry to the Italian mainland. This morning we take a guided walking tour of Bastia to appreciate how its proximity to Italy coloured its history, from fourteenth-century sorties by the Genoese to their ongoing rule during the Renaissance. We have a tasting of the aromatic local aperitif, also called Cap Corse, in the grand nineteenth-century Place Saint-Nicolas, before time for lunch at leisure in one of the square’s many restaurants. In the afternoon, we continue by coach to Mariana. Located on the edge of another étang, it is the site of Corsica’s first cathedral, La Canonica, a serene and monumental Romanesque basilica. There is an intriguing Roman archaeological site here and a newly-opened museum. Tonight we have another talk in our hotel, before an evening at leisure. Overnight Bastia.

    SUNDAY 11 MAY – CAP CORSE & SAINT-FLORENT (B, L)

    A long and narrow peninsula that stretches to the extreme north of the island of Corsica, Cap Corse is sometimes described as an island within an island. To its west, small villages sit on rugged cliffs, while the east is dotted with numerous small ports. On clear days, there are views to the islands of Tuscany and coastline of Italy, and on our guided walk at Macinaggio (ca 2.5hrs, elevation gain of 250m), we survey the string of Genoese watch towers that protected this crucial but relatively untouched region. Over a simple picnic lunch, we enjoy the landscape covered by the celebrated Corsican maquis, a mixed scrub of aromatic plants and herbs that gives off a sweet perfume when warmed by the sun, and views of pristine beaches. We return to Bastia via the scenic port of Saint-Florent, where there may be time to enjoy an ice cream on the waterfront! Returning to the hotel, the evening is at leisure. Overnight Bastia.

    MONDAY 12 MAY – THE HEART OF THE ISLAND (B, D)

    We check out of our hotel this morning and travel by coach to Saint-Michele de Murato. Perched on a mountain with beautiful panoramas over the Bevinco Valley, this small church was built from white and green marbles ca 1280 and is one of the key examples of the influential Pisan Romanesque style. Its dramatic location and simple but effective architecture are one of the island’s most memorable sights. Afterwards, we continue into the interior, stopping at Corte. This hill town is dominated by its citadel, which perches at the summit, and was the island’s capital for much of its history. After lunch at leisure, we uncover Corte’s recent past on a guided visit to the Musée de la Corse, a modern museum exploring Corsican anthropology, from pottery to agriculture and folklore. We check in to our hotel, located in a tranquil mountain valley, in the afternoon and enjoy dinner in a local restaurant. Overnight Corte.

    TUESDAY 13 MAY – GRANITE MOUNTAINS (B, L)

    Corsica was almost single-handedly introduced to modern travellers by Dorothy Carrington in the middle of the twentieth century, in her sensitive book Granite Island. Carrington makes a strong case for the island’s strong, independent character as a reflection of its landscape, and today we explore this idea in its iconic mountains. Travelling to a potential altitude of 1,160m, we undertake a guided walk of a section of a mountain trail that meanders through forests and past granite rocks near Vizzavona (ca 90 minutes, elevation gain of 90m). Various colonisers of Corsica sought to control its inhabitants by imposing changes on its landscape – such as the Genoese and their passion for chestnut plantations – but the Corsicans remain proud of  their endemic species, such as the Corsican pine. These trees, an important source of timber, grow in the area and will live for up to 500 years if undisturbed. Lunch is a simple picnic before we continue to Ajaccio. Checking in to our hotel, the evening is at leisure. Overnight Ajaccio.

    WEDNESDAY 14 MAY – THROUGH THE CALANQUES TO GIROLATA (B, L, D)

    We head out of Ajaccio this morning for an excursion through some of Corsica’s most famous landscapes. In fact, the Gulf of Porto has a UNESCO World Heritage listing for its distinctive geological and ecological characteristics. We come first to the Calanques de Piana, steep ravines of red ochre that contrast dramatically with the blue of the sea and sky and are covered in the unique maquis of the Western Mediterranean. In Porto, the centre of the Regional Natural Park of Corsica that takes in the entire gulf, we embark on an eco-cruise of the Scandola Nature Reserve. Established in 1975, its rich biodiversity is recognised by the UNESCO listing, from sources of coral to hundreds of bird and fish species and an endangered colony of seals. We call in at Girolata, a fishing village that is only accessible by water. Here we have a simple lunch and see some historic local infrastructure, including a small fort. Returning to Ajaccio in the later afternoon, there is time to pack before our farewell dinner near the hotel. Overnight Ajaccio.

    THURSDAY 15 MAY – DEPARTURE (B)

    Tour arrangements conclude after breakfast this morning. Ajaccio Napoleon Bonaparte Airport is only 5km from central Ajaccio, so can be very easily reached by taxi. There are regular flights here to Paris and Nice, in order to make international connections or take onward flights within Europe. Our partners at Mary Rossi Travel would be pleased to advise on your travel arrangements, including flights, transfers and international travel insurance.

  • NB: hotels in Corsica have the feel of regional 4* properties on the mainland, with rooms of varying sizes and outlooks. We have principally chosen them for their central locations and convenience for our touring. While most are in historic buildings, rooms and common areas have been refurbished in recent years and the aesthetic is contemporary. Hotels of a similar standard may be substituted.

    Pozzo di Borgo Hotel 4* Ajaccio, 2 nights & 2 nights

    https://www.palazzu-domu.fr/en

    This hotel changed name from the Palazzu u’ Domu in 2021.

    Hotel Genovese 4* Bonifacio, 2 nights

    https://hotel-genovese.com/home

    Hotel Les Gouverneurs 4* Bastia, 3 nights

    https://www.hoteldesgouverneurs.fr/en 

    Hotel Dominique Colonna 4* Corte, 1 nights

    https://www.dominique-colonna.com/accueil-1-en.html

    • 10 nights’ accommodation at 4* hotels

    • All breakfasts and 9 lunches or dinners, with drinks

    • All ground transport, guided tours and entrance fees to sites as mentioned in the itinerary, and tipping

    • Expertise of and commentary by an Australian tour leader throughout, including a series of talks

    • Expertise of and commentary by a qualified local English-speaking guide, with a hiking specialisation

  • A $1,000pp deposit is required at the time of booking to hold your place on tour.

    We will invoice you for final payment for the tour, due on 19 February 2025.

  • When you book on one of tours, we ask you to accept our terms and conditions. You can read our terms and conditions here.

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